Sage Adventures: Hike Review: Black Elk Peak

For my first hike review, I thought I would do one of my favorite hikes so far… And that is the Black Elk Peak Loop hike, in Custer State Park, in the Black Hills of South Dakota. This 7.9-mile hike has an elevation change, over distance, of about 1000’. Although due to varied terrain elevations, the total changes in elevation you will navigate will be over 1900’ total. All of which is done above 1 mile above sea level.

Background:

I love this hike, because it takes you to parts of the park many people don’t see. While the return route down from Black Elk Peak is a wide, well used trail from the Sylvan Lake Lodge area, the route I take is very much LESS used. And that is why I am sharing it.

Black Elk Peak was formerly known as Harney Peak, is the highest point in South Dakota, and the highest point in the U.S. EAST of the Rocky Mountains. With a summit of 7,242 feet-ASL (2207m). Because of the history of the area, Harney Peak, and Black Elk Peak are used interchangeably.

NOTE: Along this trail, and especially close to the summit of Black Elk Peak, you may come across trees with brightly colored ribbons tied to the branches. DO NOT TOUCH! These ribbons are part of the Sioux Indian Tribes religious rituals and should NEVER be disturbed or removed! This is out of respect for their religion and their culture! (And I am sure violates some rule/law somewhere! So just don’t do it!!)

This hike is within the Custer State Park, so you will need to purchase a State Park Pass to do this hike. I purchase the annual pass for $30.00 simply because after a few hikes in the area, it’s paid for itself. But if you are coming to SD from out of state, you can get a Weekly Park License for $20 per vehicle. There are other rates for Motorcycles and RV’s as well.

This is a great hike for families. But if you have younger kids, I might suggest simply doing the ‘out-n-back’ hike along the much easier “Sylvan Lake – Harney Peak trail”, rather than the longer, and more remote/rugged loop trail I am about to tell you about.

Prepping:

This is not a technical hike. And can be done in tennis shoes, although I would only do it in boots, simply because of the ankle support, and the always present “Murphy’s Law”. (I have seen some ‘fools’ do the Summit only trail in flip-flops and sandals… sooooooo….)

You also don’t need a lot of gear to do this. But what you NEED to take is WATER! Lots of water! This is nearly 8.0 miles of hiking, and all at elevations above a mile! So, you need to make sure you have plenty of drinking water with you, as there won’t be any place to buy it once you’re on the trail! A small backpack, some water bottles, and snacks are a must! Also, sun-screen, and bug spray! While it’s not needed, I always carry a small First-Aid kit with me. Simply because you never know. (Several years ago, when hiking this trail, we came up on a family with a young boy who had slipped and cut his knee. He was crying pretty hard. But I asked the mom if she wanted me to give him a band-aid? And she said yes… So, I cleaned it up, put some ointment on it, and a big band-aid, and he stopped crying… Did I cure his wounds? No, but I made him feel better… And we went our separate ways smiling…)
And while not required for this hike… I highly recommend using walking sticks! (Something I will discuss in a “how to” post later… Having walking sticks helps with balance gives you stability when going up and down steep rocky faces.

When you get back… CHECK FOR TICKS!!! And treat as needed if you find any on yourself, or anyone in your group.

The Hike:

Starting from Sylvan Lake Lodge from the parking area on the southeast side of the lake, you can find a trail that cuts over a little gap in the rocks to the east. This is the start of the “Little Devils Tower Connector Trail” which will take you to the “Little Devils Tower Trail Head”. This TH can be accessed from the “Needles Highway” (SD HWY 87) as well, if the Sylvan Lake Lodge Parking area is full (Which it often is in the summer time.) This trail segment is 0.61 miles from the parking lot to the trailhead”.

The “Little Devils Tower Trail” (LDT), is marked as Trail #4. Once you’re on the LDT trail, you hike east/northeast on smooth, single track trail with a few rises that will sneak up on you! From the Trail Head, to the Junction of the “Norbeck Trail” you will hike about 1.75 miles. Along this trail, you will see the back side of “Cathedral Spires”. As well as the prominent out crop called “Little Devils Tower”. This is accessed by a 0.4 mile, ‘out-n-back’ spur trail from the main trail. The LDT Spur Trail is ID’d as Trail #4B.

A few hundred yards further east, you come to the junction of trail #4A, which is the “Cathedral Spires Trail”. This 0.65-mile trail leads south to another parking area on the “Needles Highway” (SD HWY 87) which provides you another option for parking and starting off from. You will continue to move east/northeast though along the LDT Trail #4 until you reach the junction of trail #3, the “Norbeck Trail”.

Looking East towards the Badlands

Moving north along the “Norbeck Trail”, you will hike about 0.85 miles until you reach the junction of the #9 trail, “Sylvan Lake Harney Peak Trail”. Portions of this trail are rather steep, with loos rock and narrow tracks as you really begin the climb up to the summit. The Views along this section of trail are amazing! Looking east, on a clear day, you can even see the western edges of the badlands, as well as some stunning vistas within the Black Elk Wilderness Area.

I have encountered deer on this trail, literally ON the trail. Because of the volume of human traffic on the trails, they are used to us, and don’t always run off.

Once you reach the junction of trails #3 & #4, you will turn north, and hike a series of ‘switch-backs’ along a rocky, well worn (probably over worn) trail until you reach the base of the lookout tower. Ascending the stairs, you will reach the old Fire Watch tower built on the summit.

Family Portrait - July 2017

Once you climb to the top… WOW!!! The views are amazing in EVERY direction! Many people will exit the building and climb the rocks at the summit for pictures and what have you. After you’ve taken all your pictures, seen all the views, (Caught your breath, and rested your legs,) its time to go back down the mountain.

Because this is a “loop” you’ll be going back down on a different trail to the Sylvan Lake area. The #9 “Sylvan Lake - Hearny Peak Trail” moves you down the west face of the mountain, along a wide, well worn, trail. (Be sure to turn around and look at where you’ve been…)

Since this is the route most people take to the summit, there will be a lot more people, dogs, horses, etc. on this trail. You will also find benches along the way back down, and “interpretive sites” where you can read about the various plants and animals in the area.

Again, deer are a common sighting, and are not prone to run away. This gives you a great chance for some photographs. But as with any wild animal, do not approach them, for everyone’s safety.

And that’s about it for this hike.

I absolutely love this hike, and I can’t believe I was almost 50 before I hiked it the first time! (But then again, my dad wasn’t much for “outdoor” activities! So, camping/hiking were NEVER on his ‘to-do’ list!)